Ball Python (Python regius) Caresheet

Housing

Ball Pythons are a very sedentary species and can do well in relatively small housing, with a juvenile able to start off in an enclosure approximately the size of a 10 gallon tank. A male is able to live comfortably for his entire life in a 20 gallon long sized enclosure, while a female will be happy in something closer to a 40 gallon long. Ideally, an enclosure should have a total footprint perimeter of twice the length of the snake. So, for example, a 4 foot snake should be in an enclosure at least a 24” long and 24” wide. Be it a glass tank or Rubbermaid, this species does well in either. The key to providing appropriate hosing with this species is to give them enough floor space to stretch out, since this is a terrestrial species and they do not like to climb.

Ball Pythons are from moderately humid regions, and they like things fairly warm. They should have a hot side of 88 to 95*F, and mid to low-80s on the cool side. These temperatures allow them to thermoregulate and digest properly, and can be obtained by the use of a reptile heating pad or heat tape connected to a dimmer switch or thermostat. Check the temperature of the hot side occasionally to ensure that the temperature is right. This is done by placing the thermometer directly over the heat source. Carefully monitor the temperature if you make any adjustments! If it’s too hot, they can burn themselves. Too cold, and they will not be able to digest their meals properly.

The substrate should be misted daily, and ideally the humidity should be about 60%, up to a maximum of 80% when in a shed cycle. Acceptable substrates include coconut bark (eco-earth), cypress mulch, jungle earth, or aspen shavings. Paper towels, newspaper or reptile carpet work well when an animal is ill, or still in quarantine. Unacceptable substrates include pine and cedar shavings (they emit a toxic gas), and sand.

Cleaning is a fairly simple task. Make sure the water bowl is clean and full at all times, and remove feces 1-2 times weekly or as you see it. Once a week, usually on feeding days, take the water dish out and clean it. If using wood shavings as substrate, remove all the wet shavings and discard. Approximately once every 3-6 months, remove all substrate from the tank and discard. If using a paper substrate, it should be changed after each bowel movement. The tank can be cleaned with hot water and dish soap or vinegar. A safe sterilizing agent is Peroxiguard. Be sure to rinse thoroughly!

Handling

Ball pythons rarely try to bite. Sometimes they will strike when stimulated to a feeding response, but they rarely hold on, and the bite is generally less severe than a small cat scratch. If the snake does manage to bite, try not to jerk back. This can injure the snake. If necessary, a small dab of alcohol near the mouth should cause it to release.

Feeding

Feed juveniles every 5-7 days and adults every 7-10 days. This species is nocturnal, so feed in the evenings. We recommend feeding outside of the tank to avoid the risk of impaction from ingesting substrate. A Rubbermaid container (it doesn't have to be very big) with holes punched into the lid or side for ventilation works well. Be sure that whatever feeding container you purchase has a very tight-fitting lid! Thaw an appropriately sized rat (should be about 1.5 times the snake's largest girth) in hot water. Be sure that the rat is completely thawed before feeding. To check, gently squeeze the rat between your fingers. If it feels warm all the way through, it is ready!

When you are ready to feed, remove the snake from the tank and place in the Rubbermaid. Use tongs or tweezers to hold the rat by its tail and hind legs to offer it to the snake. Most ball pythons react very quickly to this type of feeding, and will strike at the rat and take it from you. Some may prefer to be left alone in the feeding container with the rat. Once you see the snake starting to eat, be sure to tightly replace the lid! The first couple times that you feed, the snake should be left alone because any movement or light in the room might scare it. You'll be able to watch more when the snake settles into its new surroundings in the coming weeks. When finished eating, place the snake back in the tank. Do it gently; the snake will still be having feeding responses, so it may try to bite you (especially if you forgot to wash your hands after you touched the rat!).

Don't worry if the snake doesn't eat on the first try. Ball pythons can be picky eaters, and often will fast for months at a time when adults. If you want, the snake can stay in the Rubbermaid overnight, providing ambient temperatures aren’t below 75-78 degrees. If the snake hasn’t eaten after this time, it probably won’t, so you can put it back in its tank. Throw any uneaten rats away. Do not refreeze. If the snake does not eat for several months and is losing weight, make an appointment with your veterinarian, and look into possibly offering a live prey item under supervision to stimulate a feeding response.

After feeding, do not handle the snake for 36 to 48 hours. If you handle too soon after eating, the snake may regurgitate their meal. This will look (and smell) like vomit, and the meal may or may not be digested. If the snake regurgitates, do not feed again for 2 weeks, as its body will need to replenish the stomach acids. Feeding too soon after regurgitation can lead to more regurgitation, and eventually death. If she regurgitates a second time, it's time to call a vet. Regurgitation also occurs when the animal’s environment isn’t correct, so if the snake regurgitates without handling, please check your husbandry.

Shedding

If the snake starts to get dull and milky, it means it will soon shed. Often snakes will refuse to eat at this time, so do not attempt to feed. Misting twice daily to up the humidity at this time will be beneficial. The snake will be dull for a few days, and its eyes will appear blue. A few days later the snake will appear normal again, but will not have shed yet. About one week after first turning milky, the snake will shed.

If the shed skin is all in one piece (or a couple large pieces), it means that conditions were perfect. Be sure to inspect the shed to see that the very tip of the tail came off, as well as the eye caps (snakes do shed the scales that cover their eyeballs!) If pieces of skin are still stuck to the body after shedding, try adding a bit more moisture and give another day to work it off. If this doesn't work, take a clean sock, pillowcase, or snake bag (depending on size of the animal), run it under warm (not hot) water, wring it out, and then place the snake inside and CAREFULLY tie it closed. Place the ‘bag’ inside the tank and leave the snake like that overnight. Rubbing against the cloth material should cause the rest of the skin to be shed.